Lunch at Juliet

We try out Stroud’s European-influenced bistro

Does anything say Italian bistro like scoffing caponata two tables down from Stanley Tucci? Probably not. This was our introduction to Stroud’s much lauded bistro, Juliet, when we finally popped in to see it for ourselves.

Brainchild of Woolpack Inn owner, the sculptor Dan Chadwick, Juliet knows how to pull a crowd. When it opened, almost two years ago, William Sitwell called it "An absolute marvel of non-poncey, unfussy, simply presented" food. Grace Dent said it was “One of those places where you can lose track of time”.

So what’s the secret? “We’re open at all times for all people,” says general manager Charlie White, as he shows us to our seats. If you want to pop in for coffee on the terrace or full-blown meal, you can. “One of our regulars comes in every afternoon for a cup of tea followed by pistachio ice cream,” he says.

Melon and tomatoes with basil

The interiors are informal and simple: dark wood, leather booths, white linen. Light jazz plays. There’s an air of nonchalance, which is charming, easy.

This unstuffy approach is refreshing in a world of forced sharing platters, set meal times and staff frantically checking if the food is ok. The standard of produce and cooking is at the top of its game, too. You get the bells and whistles without feeling you need to dress up and sit straight.

Charlie tells us that the staff are provided with weekly training to ensure a balance of formal knowledge and the ability for keeping the atmosphere relaxed.

But of course, it’s the ingredients that are the real stars. During our visit, we sample tomatoes grown at the foot of Mount Vesuvius and Genovese basil so punchy it inspired the original pesto. 

Head chef Oliver Gyde has roots in Southern Italy and previously worked for Hugo’s greengrocer in Bristol, where he built a wonderful network of food producers across the Med. His cooking is held in high acclaim.

Between us, we try the peperonata (rich and layered with sweetness, bitterness and warmth), tomato with melon and basil (intense, summery) and the caponata (velvety, satiating and salty). To drink, we try a signature lemon pressé (crisp, light and sweet). But really, the showstopper is a simple scoop of sorbet. The blood plum flavour perfectly blends sweetness with the tang of a ripe plum’s skin, while the gooseberry is minty, creamy, citrussy all at once. 

For the record, when we bumped into Stanley at Stroud train station after the meal, he told us he’d tried “everything” on the menu, saying it was “incredible… amazing”. 

Words by Emily Payne and Sahara-Mai Lewis

Blood plum sorbet

Emily and Sahara with Stanely Tucci after bumping into him at Juliet in Stroud